Afife

On the trek to Afife, again we had options. Senda Litoral hugging the shoreline? Or Caminho Costa, running parallel, slightly inland? We consulted guidebooks, our walking notes, and decided to stay on the Coastal route. I’m glad we did.

The trek began with a scenic walking tour of Viana do Costela. The Way took us past Catedral Viana do Castelo, but the doors were shut. We passed through a lovely plaza near the riverfront. Sunlight glinted off the cross at the top of the fountain. Beautiful, historic buildings with ornate architecture, a feast for the eyes. We entered one for a Credencials, and moved on.

We trekked past enticing storefronts, many with handmade Portugues wares; linens and purses, beautifully embroidered. Oh, my! Not that we have an extra inch of storage space. We cram our luggage shut every morning, and our packs are heavy enough!

Soon we were heading uphill, through residential spaces. At first, we thought maybe all the way uphill, to the majestic cathedral we’d seen from the bridge on entering the city. It would have been the long, hard way. We were all relieved when the yellow arrows shifted down-hill a bit and then leveled out.

Most of the day we wound in and out of tiny towns and farmsteads just a smidge inland off the coast. Ancient stone walls towered above our heads. We trekked numerous tiny alleys, where you might touch both walls, and hope not to meet a car. Scattered here and there were lovely views of the sea, enhancing the ambiance.

We passed by a few schools, even when we couldn’t see the kids we could hear the happy babble of their voices. On one cobbled street, a bowl of fresh figs invited Pilgrims to refresh. Sweet and delicious!

Sometimes we trekked cool and peaceful wooded trails. Off one of these, we came upon a striking property with a huge red door swung open, as if to say, “Come on in.” We walked in under an empty grape arbor to a rather odd setting, dilapidated, no sign of life. Yet I’d heard voices.

We met two trekkers coming out, who encouraged us to go further, “He’s up there; he’ll give you a tour.” That scene from The Way movie of the alberge with the loony host was top of mind; we moved on!

We landed at the sweetest guest house in the tiny town of Afife, a few miles shy of Vila Praia de Ancora. It’s an ancient property, with massive stone walls and lovely interior courtyard spaces. The host made us feel very welcome, inviting us to make full use of the property.

We enjoyed the pool area, although only one of us was brave enough to submerse! Water temp might have been only 60 degrees F but therapeutic for aching feet and sore knees.

Typically we stop early afternoon for something to eat. If you don’t eat before 2 or 3, you’ll have to wait until 7 or 8. We’d stopped off at a small cafe midday for lunch. What about dinner? Restaurants reopen too late. Our trek-mates walked to the market nearby for cheese, meat, bread, and fruit. It was perfect, in the living room, with a glass of wine. Looking a little rough, perhaps, but feeling great!

One of the things I love most about trekking the Camino is the daily cycle. It is a beautiful Way, but every day holds but some degree of difficulty and suffering; also singing, sometimes dancing, as we trek. Each evening, we take time to reflect, nurse our wounds, and celebrate success. Yay! We did it again!

My devotional this day was on victory. Yes and amen! Last night I added a prescription med back into the mix, hoping for the best. As we trekked, my knee did seem better.

Arriving at the guest house, I was amazed to discover the knob of swelling had nearly vanished. The Hubs has been working through a big blister on the ball of each foot; those are also nearly healed. We’re grateful to God for travel mercies and the prayers of the Saints!

Looks like we’ll trek in the rain through Ancora, on to Caminha, and cross the border into Spain. Nobody is eager to say goodbye to Portugal but we’re all eager to see what Spain brings to our adventure!

Hold hope. Keep faith. Walk your walk.

~ Sincerely, Sondra