We had unfinished business in Nova Scotia, as our ship was unable to make port in Sydney some years ago. This trip we were all about the island with the highlands.
From Prince Edward Island, we set out for Baddeck by way of Inverness. Here a broad expanse of sandy beach bordered by a long boardwalk backs up against hefty dunes splaying out on to the golf course, behind which a small town bustles. Quite a different vibe than Inverness, Scotland!
Inverness is on the sunset-side of the island, not far from one of two entrances to the Cabot Trail at the Chéticamp Visitor Center. However, our accommodations were in Baddeck, on the oppostie shore and other end of the trail, nearer the Ingonish Visitor Center.
It’s a toss-up, in my (limited) opinion. Baddeck is the larger and more quaint community, also closer to nature tour departures. Starting from Baddeck/ Ingonish and driving counter-clockwise supposedly affords better views. Frankly, I’m not sure how much it matters, with plenty of overlooks.
Beaches are found on both coasts, although Inverness surely stands out. Inverness seems to have fewer restaurants and shops but it is on the sunset coast. And closer to the Skyline Trailhead.
Indeed, although we entered Highlands National Park at Ingonish very near to opening on Tuesday morning, signs alerted that Skyline was already at capacity! After several planned stops, it was still closed when we rounded that bend. We opted for a bog trail instead.
Rangers said moose enjoy the flora, like wild orchids and highland pitcher plants. Worth a try, eh? They also said a moose had not been sighted in the Highlands NP yet this year. We’ve been on the lookout for moose along the journey and surely hoped this was the day!
Alas, a nice bog-walk but no bog-moose.
Many people plan days for the Cabot Trail. I can see the appeal. For sure, it’s at least an all-day sort of adventure. Beyond the dramatic cliffs and scenic terrain, there are plenty of overlooks to enjoy the view, plus hiking trails, educational outposts, and tiny towns dispersed along or just off the trail.
We had just the day. Our hike being much shorter than anticipated, we exited at Chéticamp mid-afternoon. This Visitor Center is larger and more robust than at Ingonish. Signage noted ranger-led Skyline Trail excursions in the evening, presumably for sunset. Well, yes, that would have been the way to do it! This might well nudge the needle of decision to stay on the sunset side — next time.
Our next destination was the Glendora Inn & Distillery for a late lunch with live music. The stately property offers an excellent restaurant and elegant gift shop, where (among other things) I scored a Scottish spurtle. The turned wooden stirring stick is so practical, like the Scots, and just the thing I didn’t know I needed. I’m willing to bet you wouldn’t have passed it up either. :=)
The island map, at a glance, is a bit deceiving. To close the gap on the Cabot Trail, i.e. connect the ends of the horseshoe, so to speak, requires a hour or more of back-country road travel from Ingonish to Baddeck. Here we were again … for the second time in two days.
Baddeck is a beautiful town resting on the calm shores of Bras d’Or Lake. Plenty of restaurants, cute shops, interesting architecture, and a marina. We were both feeling the drain of cumulative drive time, so intentions for attending the Ceilidh (Gathering) fell by the wayside. Instead, we walked.
First, to the waterfront, determined to step into the lake! It was cold, and stony. We chatted on the rickety boardwalk with a trio from Toronto who had accessed the Skyline Trail from Ingonish VC. It was open again briefly by early afternoon — insider’s tip!
Then, up and around the Alexander Graham Bell’s estate and research institute. Great views and educational too — even after hours. We know AGB as the inventor of the telephone but his brilliance extends far beyond.
Did you know from the iced-over surface of Baddeck Bay in 1909, the first British subjects in the British Empire piloted an airplane? Me, either. Just one of many ways AGB applied his intellect to innovations for the greater good. This national historic site is not to miss — next time!
Thanks for joining the journey.
~ Sincerely, Sondra
Looking forward to adventures with you
Oh yes! Me, too! 🙂