Negreira

I wasn’t sure how I’d feel about lacing up my boots on Sunday morning, as our friends headed off for the train station. We’d pushed ourselves to reach Santiago do Compostela, then savored the sweetness of success. Would trekking on feel unnecessary or anti-climatic? When the time came, I was surprised to discover I was ready!

Camino Finisterre is a much shorter route than Camino Portugués, but more rugged and intense. It originates at Catedral de Santiago de Compostela. It’s the oldest route and the only one that doesn’t terminate in Santiago,

We left the city by way of the majestic cathedral. Sunlight glistened off the stone pavement of the plaza. It was quiet and peaceful, few pilgrims or tourists in view.

Heading downhill from there, we met a young couple who asked if we’d trekked into Santiago. She spoke English with a heavy accent. Yes, indeed; now we’re on to Finisterre. She was delighted, exclaiming, “You are strong!”

We were feeling strong — in body, mind and spirit. I remembered my doubts before setting out many weeks ago, and was grateful. All glory to God, ever-present and always faithful.

We quickly left the city behind. Soon the Cathedral was a dim outline of pinnacles on the horizon. The rain started in then and continued throughout the day. Our rain jackets have proved woefully insufficient. We’re grateful for ponchos on loan from departing trek-mates.

Much of our route was woodlands. Heading toward the coast, everything was greener, with noticeably more moss and lichen; super-saturated, sometimes muddy. Curiously, even as ferns turn brown and die down, grapes have ripened for harvest, holm oak acorns and chestnuts lay a carpet beneath our feet, an October growing season is underway. Magnolias budding; hydrangeas coming into bloom; begonias lush and fresh, as if it were June.

We knew it would be a difficult trek, mostly uphill. On one segment we trekked up a 10% grade for nearly a mile and a half. It was grueling, without a single plateau.

Kathy from Anchorage, Alaska, walked with us quite early in the day. As a Paul Smith’s College graduate, she knows our home region — small world, eh?

Pippa from Wales, with gorgeous red curls, burned past us on the long uphill slog. I called out, “You make this look easy!” She laughed, slowed, and walked alongside a while. I loved hearing of her homeland and experiences as a solo traveler.

On one uphill stretch, the trail was glittering like gold. Fools’ gold, a.k.a. pyrite? I picked a small piece up for a closer look. More likely mica, I think. Glimmers shone amidst dirt and stone for quite a distance, as if fairies had skipped through. From that one small stone, my hands were covered with tiny shiny bits.

The real bright spot in our day was in the ancient village of A Ponte Maceira, on crossing the river into eastern Negreira region. It’s listed as one of the most beautiful villages in Spain for good reason. I don’t know when I’ve seen anything so picturesque.

The settlement includes an old mill, a rounded chapel, lovely manor house and garden, and other stunning architecture. The handsome bridge utilizes original Roman infrastructure. If there was only one place for the sun to shine a few moments, this was it!

Today’s trek was longer (14 miles) and harder than anticipated, with a record-setting 53 flights of stairs! Yet we arrived at our destination in great time, about 6 1/2 hours. Admittedly, I was dragging the last mile or two!

It did seem our hotel was much further out of the way than necessary at the end of a long haul. I’d begun formulating a statement to the agency in my mind. All of which quickly dissipated, realizing there were many albergues but only two hotels. Clearly, we got the best one.

Casa Neboa is small but solid stone structure tucked around the corner on a narrow cobbled street. We settled into a spacious room with a beautiful view on the village. The building was thoughtfully renovated with a modern and warm farmhouse vibe, and comfortable social seating inside the room and out.

Best of all, we were invited to order dinner at the restaurant on site at the exact time it suited us — rather than waiting for 8:00 pm, or trudging back out in the rain. We were delighted to land so well after such a difficult day.

Tomorrow the forecast is concerning, with severe thunder and lightning predicted mid-afternoon. It’s another long and arduous route, although more open, less woodlands. We’ll keep options open; the forecast looks challenging for the duration due to remnants of a hurricane passing through.

Hold hope. Keep faith. Walk your walk.

~ Sincerely, Sondra