Do you keep a bucket list of places to go or things to do this side of heaven? Me, too. So satisfying to check one off, eh? Last week, we had the distinct pleasure of observing belugas in the wild — beyond marvelous!
We first learned of a resident beluga population in at Tadoussac while cruising the Canadian Maritimes out of Quebec City. Unfortunately, we sailed through Parc Marin du Saguenay-Saint-Laurent in the black of night — twice!
Later, a Canadian friend shared more information; then we knew it’d be a road trip adventure. It only took another decade to make that 800-mile round-trip run!
The first five hours of our journey took us across an international border on the fringe of Akwesasne Mohawk lands, cross-lots fertile farmlands of southern Quebec, then bridging the beautiful St. Lawrence to navigate nasty construction on the back side of Quebec City.
The next three hours we drove almost parallel with the St. Lawrence over terrain much more dramatic than expected. So glad not to be hauling a RV through deeply sculpted hills and valleys, dodging logging trucks and other big rigs and motorbikes on two lanes transitioning to one lane back to two lanes, with emergency run offs every couple of miles!
Ahead and to our left, endless woodlands interspersed with lakes and small towns. To our right, glimpses of the river broadening every mile; an occasional large ship churning the channel.
Along the drive, wildflowers were my personal delight. Large stands of purple lupine, wide swaths of white daisies, interloping yellow buttercups, bright Indian paintbrushes splashing orange and red throughout. The Quebec countryside slid by like Monet’s garden. From nearly every vantage, vistas took my breath away!
Signage was in French, of course — along with sometimes confusing pictures. We understood MOOSE; familiar, if uninitiated. (Except that one time a young adult newly released to populate in the wild hung out under the apple tree in our yard!) We’d like to see one but not to meet one on the hood of the car. Oddly juxtaposed, BALEINES signage was often anchored to steep hillsides of freshly harvested grass rolled into massive round bales.
With only one brief fuel stop, we were road-weary on arrival at the iconic and elegant Hotel Tadoussac. Despite fine dining on site, we were eager to stretch our legs and explore the tiny town. A couple weeks in advance of high season, no problem finding seats for delicious local food and brews.
We had only two nights/days in town before a Quebec City rendezvous, and made the most of every minute. The Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park provides environmental protection for the belugas and several lovely overlook points to observe these bright beauties from shore.
Thursday: We walked to Marine Mammal Interpretation Center. CIMM is all about the belugas and a must-do with kids; highly interactive exhibits and full scale skeletons to awe and inspire. Nearby, the Pointe-de-I’lselt Trail was a fun and refreshing excursion: lots of rocks intersecting wooden boardwalk, many steps up and down; great views, including our first beluga sightings. Woo-hoo!
Most of Thursday we were traveling deep into the Saguenay Fjord on a small vessel to L’Anse Saint Jean. This is sweet little fishing village has turned to tourism to stay afloat. One cafe. One ice cream shop. One kayak rental shop. One small marina. A few lodging houses for skiers. On the cruise back we saw a minke whale, a harbor seal, and lots of the fjord, but no belugas.
We got back just in time to tour the inside of the historic Petite Chapelle des Indians / Saint Croix de Tadoussac Mission before closing. The oldest wooden church in North America (1747) maintains an exemplary testimony, plus unique architecture and artifacts; so worth a visit. Then we landed a table for dinner deluxe at Hotel Tadoussac. Day one, nicely done!
Friday: From the broad balcony at the Hotel Tadoussac, we enjoyed coffee and several more beluga sightings. Granted, belugas have been at some distance but the flash of their wide white backs above the surface is unmistakeable. Once you’ve seen it, you know it. We, however, were on a mission to view belugas more closely!
A short drive further along Rt. 138 led us to the Marine Environment and Discovery Center, with beautiful views and exhibits on the underwater environment, but no belugas. From there, back towards Tadoussac to Cap de Bon-Desire Interpretation and Observation Center, a historic lighthouse settlement with wooded trail to rocky point and expansive whale-watching perspective, but no belugas.
Sometimes it felt like we’d found the End of the Earth, North America. But we saw the map and know better!
I must also say, staff at each of the small educational centers we visited were outstanding — welcoming and helpful, gracious in speaking English, well-informed, and passionate about their work. We didn’t spot any other whales, neither unexpected nor disappointing so early in the season. Mid-July to September or October you’ll find a plethora of prospects as whales migrate to feed off the richness of the region. Whale watching tours abound but boats are not allowed to approach the belugas, protected residents all year long.
We’re surprised (yet again) by dramatic effects of ocean tides on the St. Lawrence from Quebec City eastward. Far from the familiar waterway of St. Lawrence County, NY, the river stretches five miles wide here. Landscapes and seascapes shift dramatically on the tide.
Beluga home-base also shifts as temperatures drop, from the fresh-water fjord into the salty St. Lawrence, which doesn’t freeze over. Belugas lack a protruding dorsal fin, so they are able to navigate ice. Seems smart they opt not to live beneath it!
We’d seen belugas, but not up close. Fortunately, we’d one more hopeful stop. After catching the ferry in Tadoussac on our westwardly route, we pulled in at Point Noire Observation & Interpretation Centre. Here we hit the beluga jackpot!
We lingered as long as we could, enjoying the slow dance of a dozen belugas in the bay. They sometimes surfaced in pairs, but more typically solo. We observed one perhaps playful interaction between (white) adult and (gray) youngster. Adults never showed off a flipper or fluke, gently sinking beneath the surface, revealing neither head nor tail. Thus I was especially delighted to capture an image of baby fluke and another of baby flipper!
We could have stayed hours or days, but not today. A certain someone special was turning #40 and we weren’t going to miss it! Day two ended on a high note, celebrating at a renown Quebec City steakhouse.
My heart was full to overflowing, enjoying the marvels of God’s creation and the blessing of our own family. I wouldn’t change a thing on the beluga bucket list road trip!
~ Sincerely, Sondra
Thanks for the “tour “,via your prose! I especially enjoyed this part” Along the drive, wildflowers were my personal delight. Large stands of purple lupine, wide swaths of white daisies, interloping yellow buttercups, bright Indian paintbrushes splashing orange and red throughout. The Quebec countryside slid by like Monet’s garden. From nearly every vantage, vistas took my breath away!”
But it was all a delightful ride!