Matosinhos

Today is the day our Camino begins! Yesterday we returned to the Cathedral for our first stamp. Then it was time to pack, and repack, trying to make weight. The luggage transfer service is very strict.

We are carrying more on our backs than anticipated, even after delivering two large bags of airline swag, food, and extraneous clothing to some homeless folk. Still our luggage is overweight! We’ll need to recalibrate tonight.

Saying goodbye to our friend, Porto, was bittersweet but we are all ready to trek! There have been some wildfires in the area impacting air quality the past 24 hours. I was so glad we had a few days up front to get out and about. I awoke middle of the night to the acrid scent penetrating our hotel room. Here’s hoping the sea breeze clears our path.

Our route is West along the Douro River then North along the sea. It was super sweet to receive Bom Camino blessings from the local Portuguese along The Way. We are using the Senda Litoral route initially — a bit longer, but more pleasant scenery. We’ll join up with our main route, the Camino Costa (Coastal Way), in a few days.

The first portion is not well signed but we had no difficulty. My Google-maps were actually quite accurate! Views were as promised, with well maintained boardwalks, expansive beaches and picturesque rock formations, along with swimmers, sunbathers, beach walkers, and a surfer school. The sea is cold; many wore wet suits.

Unfortunately the smog of forest fires followed us. We encountered few Pilgrims as a result. However, air quality improved dramatically mid-way on our northerly stretch. It felt almost normal by arrival in Matosinhos.

Turned out to be a short-lived relief. As we finished a lovely seaside meal mid-afternoon, smog descended like a curtain. The sky looked weird and atmosphere felt heavier. The glow-orange sun had shrunk into a small speck hidden by haze. We weren’t long settling the bill and returning to the hotel!

Among several memorable monuments, the most moving was the larger-than life-sized Tragedy at Sea installed on the broad beach in Matosinhos. Their loss and grief is palpable, as any seafaring populace would know too well. The photo sequence also shows the dramatic decline in air quality within a couple hours!

All in all, it was a great first day of trekking. Temps in near to high-70s most of the day, with a brisk ocean breeze. A relatively short and easy trek (7 miles) helped build confidence and clear out the jitters. No blisters; no complaints!

We’ll keep a close eye on the wildfire situation and make decisions accordingly. Tomorrow, our trek is a bit longer. No doubt it will be an early night in Matosinhos!

Hold hope. Keep faith. Walk your walk.

~ Sincerely, Sondra

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