Today we were scheduled for a long trek (16 miles) from Negreira to the sleepy small town of Mazaricos. It’d be another tough one with significant elevation gain. Last night over a lovely dinner at Casa Neboa, we discussed options, given severe lightning in the forecast.
Our waitress at the hotel in Negreira spoke little English but was very handy with her translation app. We conferred, then accepted assistance ordering a taxi for early afternoon. This morning, we woke to party sunny skies, with severe lightning forecast moved to later in the afternoon. What to do?
The weather shifts so dramatically in this part of the country. We were unsettled to miss a trek day but knew we’d feel foolish if safety became a factor. Neither of us wanted to trek under a cloud of anxiety, pressing hard to beat a storm. Plus, although he’d never complain, the Hubs’ feet were painfully sore. He needed time to heal.
As you might surmise, we took the taxi. After check out, we utilized the lovely social space on our floor; a nice perk. We were grateful.
Coming to Mazaricos by taxi as we did, I have more visual imagery than photos. There was a distinct shift from the terrain of these past few weeks. We saw a lot of windmills on the high ridges. Mostly open countryside; rolling hills sloping into valleys sprinkled with farms and small villages. Massive chestnuts, hanging heavy with bright green ripened pods, impossible to miss.
There were skinny eucalyptus trees, towering high with silver-green leaves near the top; much more mature than what we’ve seen on the trail. We love the eucalyptus forest while trekking; the aroma is so fresh and soothing. Sometimes it’s mixed with evergreens; there’s a long needled pine here that makes for a heavenly combination.
However, there are some dark theories around the abundance of eucalyptus. Since the first day we were impacted by forest fires, we’ve heard repeatedly of suspicions. Some claim fires are set on purpose to clear space for paper companies to plant eucalyptus, which grows fast and cheap. It also sucks up a lot of water, detrimental to surrounding flora and encouraging drought.
Since Negreira, we continue to see signs that dairy is important to this area. Today we saw our first Holstein herd. The herds we’ve seen are small; a dozen, maybe two, the vast majority are beefers. In town we found heartwarming dairy cows on display.
We saw more open farmland and larger fields in production than anywhere else on this journey. Crop fields are still small by modern standards, and hedged in. The Hubs said, “Oh, for an excavator…” You can take the boy off the farm but you can’t take the farm out of the boy!
Skies are darkening as I write.
It will be a stormy night.
Tomorrow’s forecast is not bright.
But it’s just rain … right?
We pilgrims will press on!
Hold hope. Keep faith. Walk your walk.
~ Sincerely, Sondra
