On the road again

It feels so good to be on the road again! This summer we’re road tripping by car through the Canadian Atlantic provinces. This week we set off on the longer loop of a two-part Maritimes journey for another bucket list adventure.

We drove 14 hours from northern NY through Quebec and New Brunswick to spend a few days on Prince Edward Island. From here, we’ll press on to Cape Breton Island and the highlands of Nova Scotia; back to New Brunswick for the Bay of Fundy; onward through Maine; a White Mountain adventure in New Hampshire; finally, Vermont and home. All told, about 2,200 miles.

Our first day out was seven hours’ drive, parallel to the southern shore of the St. Lawrence. Less dramatic than our northern route in June but sufficiently scenic. Bonus: easy-peasy terrain!

Quebec continues to surprise in scope and scale. This was dairy day. We passed one farm after another, each with a cluster of concrete silos.  Plenty of fertile cropland: corn, soybeans, and field grasses, some rolled into round bales. A few fields in bright yellow flower, perhaps canola.

At home, hedgerows are often cleared, creating more efficient large fields from several small ones. Here, large fields are subdivided by uniform hedgerows, as if planted on purpose, perhaps as wind- or snow-break. Others are sectioned by long narrow tracts of varied plantings, some gently mounded, presumable for drainage.

I’d scheduled a stop in Cacouna, at Putep’t-wat on the beluga trail. The newest observation site resides on First Nations land. It was perfectly timed and tuned; a refreshing way to stretch our legs and lungs six hours into the grind.

I’d purchased timed shuttle tickets, so we didn’t linger over a delectable lunch at Maqahamoc Pub Wolastoqey, an Indigenous restaurant — fortunate find. My goal this trip is to enjoy fresh seafood and lobster guédille was a great start. Before the day was out, we’d add smoked meat pizza to the deliciousness of day one.

Ironically, on arrival at the observation center, we learned the electric bus was kaput. Directed to use our own vehicle, we passed through a security check point, then a gated fence protecting the port area, where load of windmill blades awaited transport. From the small parking lot then, a short walk uphill to the observation deck and education center.

In addition to the blades, we were surprised by the accessible potty technology and SmartFlower solar in use at the summit. The potty was especially appreciated! With a wide track door and vented chamber on cement floor, it’s super smart.

Summit vistas were spectacular in bright sunshine accompanied by a spirited breeze. Inviting trails wound through the property, lush with flora. Lots of wildflowers and varied berries, including wild blueberries. Interpretive signage throughout included English, gratefully. Observation decks provide expansive perspective East to West. To the North, the sandy shores of Tadoussac on the horizon.

We didn’t spot any belugas, probably due to the wind. But we did find was quite a thrill: our first moose — almost! On the lower level, near the waterfront, we stumbled on three sets of moose tracks, two adults and a youngster. Super exciting, eh? :=)

From Cacouna, we had another hour on the road to reach our accommodations in Dégelis. The humble Hôtel-Motel 1212 near Témiscouata houses Microbrasserie Madawaska, a happy coincidence at the end of a long drive. Day one, done. Thanks for joining the journey.

~ Sincerely, Sondra