Redondela

We shared a moment with this gentleman of stone on Sunday morning, leaving Vigo. Don’t know his story but now he’s part of ours. I think he fits right in.

The trek to Redondela was arduous at the outset. For 2 hours we climbed consistently uphill. Just when we thought we’d level off, nada. Once we got up there the views were glorious!

Eventually, the trail did level off into sweetness of woodlands. Then we traversed mostly hard packed earth, so much easier on back and knees. There was a lot of trekker traffic, on foot and by bike, also locals, on a lovely Sunday afternoon.

On the outskirts of Redondela we began our descent, switchbacking through cobbled streets. It was quiet, and easy. I was so glad the hard work of this trek came early in the day.

A rally of a 30 or 40 motorcycles rolled in from behind, led by a truck flashing blue lights. We pulled off to let them pass, waving and cheering them on. They revved their engines in response. Big smiles all ‘round; crazy loud camaraderie!

We found a nice restaurant on a small plaza before we reached our hotel. Timing is always tight to get in a good meal on a long trek day. We dropped our packs off and settled in to order.

That’s when we spotted Mary from the Ukraine, eating alone. A bit reluctantly, she joined us. We’d crossed paths at a stamp stand earlier.

Mary helped solve the puzzle of the feihua, small green fruits at the stand. We’d seen them on trees, and the ground. The señora didn’t speak English; Mary said feihua is her favorite flavor soft drink in the Ukraine

Little did we know she was just a few hours into her first day on the Camino. She’d landed in Barcelona the night prior by way of Warsaw, Poland — after an 18-hour train ride from her home in Kiev, Ukraine. We cherished her story of a journey from a war-torn country, complicated by grief. It was our privilege to break bread with this beautiful, brave, and articulate young woman.

Our accommodations weren’t far away, and a good thing because it’d been quite a day. Don’t let the GoogleMap fool you! The Hubs reports we climbed the equivalent of 38 flights of stairs. Just a few more streets and a small alley to reach our pensión.

This was our first pensión experience. I presume the agency couldn’t get a hotel in this little town. Either that or they’re making bank!

Pensións offer private rooms and private bathrooms and can be reserved in advance (unlike albergues). However, no social space or restaurant on site. Super minimalistic; small and spare rooms. Our bathroom towels were thin and rough, line-dried.

Hot shower, decent bed, and access to a washer and dryer. What more could a trekker want? We were backed up on laundry with two loads. The dryer was a low and slow but our wool socks did fine overnight on the line. :=)

We met another couple there, Claire and Brian, recently retired, from Wisconsin. The Hubs enjoyed talking hockey and dairy. Claire and I connected over volunteer service while laundry machines whirled and spun. They’re veering off for the Spiritual Variant, some of which is by boat. I’ve been curious and hope to cross paths downstream to hear more.

My devotional this morning was on the presence of God. As I trekked I was thinking about how God’s presence is within us when we walk with Him. We’re never alone; His Spirit goes with us. How cool that it can also be perceived by others! I was reminded of this sweet mystery as conversations unfolded today. His goodness is epic.

Hold hope. Keep faith. Walk your walk.

~ Sincerely, Sondra

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