Santiago de Compostela

What a day! We made it to Santiago! The trek was long (14+ miles) but we had good energy for the final push.

We knew to expect high cardio, inclines and declines. Every decline was a gut-punch, knowing there was a much larger incline ahead. As it turned out, inclines were long and usually not as steep as anticipated. What a difference that made on the long haul.

So surprised and grateful the trail wasn’t overrun with Pilgrims. I have no explanation. Over 3,500 arrived on Friday — far outstripping our expectations or anything we’ve since summer high season.

I can’t explain how we enjoyed long stretches of near-solitude under lush, green and graceful woodland canopy … except that we were walking the favor of God. It was so sweet.

We passed by small Galician farms with a variety of livestock: sheep, goats, cows, and horses. We’re never far from the sound of a rooster crowing. More vineyards and cornfields. Sometimes truck loads of corn silage. A beautiful deep pink hydrangea that dries down to red caught my eye. Plenty of the holm oak acorn famous for flavoring ham were underfoot.

More churches, of course. Curiously, none with doors open for stamps. We used small cafes instead. Also many more Galician granaries, a few which had been converted into something useful. One had wood storage underneath; another sheltered a mama dog with pups.

I’m grateful we’ve seen few dogs off leash or out of the yard, and those have been friendly or disinterested. We’ve also seen several trailers for dogs and groups of young beagles in training.

Along The Way we’ve seen plenty of old granite pools with slanted seating. Most are still functional, with fresh water pooling and running through. There were apparently foot-bathing stations for weary pilgrims. There have been many times I’d have liked to strip off my boots and enter in!

Our bodies held up well, too. Thank you for keeping us in prayer. Remarkably, I walked all day without a knee brace on either knee; pain free. Grateful to God.

After a few victory photos at the cathedral, we went to the Pilgrim Reception Center to claim our Compostelas, the Latin document of completion. We walked through the tunnel with the bagpiper, twice, it’s so moving. Eventually we found our way to the hotel. We rallied just in time to hobble off to the Pilgrim’s Mass.

A long line had formed by the time we arrived, about 30 minutes before the service was to start. We joined the queue. It was standing room only by the time we climbed the stairs and entered the Catedral de Santiago de Compostela.

Standing for more than an hour is painful. Even after that long trek, I wouldn’t have it any other way. We had to do the Pilgrim’s Mass!

We found a spot near a pillar and a devout local Spanish couple. The procession passed within inches, which was surreal. When recessing, the Archbishop made eye contact and raised his hands slightly in a blessing.

A brief welcome message was provided in four languages by laymen/women, including English. Countries represented by pilgrims arriving today was announced in Spanish. The archbishop began his message by greeting us in at least four languages.

Thereafter, the cadence of the mass was familiar, but there wasn’t an option to participate until the Hallelujah response. Altogether fitting! The highest form of praise needs no translation.

Security was tight. No photos allowed, unless near the end, if they swung the botafumeiro. I’d hoped and prayed for this opportunity. I couldn’t take my eyes off the gleaming silver orb throughout the service.

Finally, I was excited to see the red-robed men emerge and stand at the ready! There’s no way to know if the incense will flow on the mass you attend, except for specific church holidays. If you’ve watched the movie, The Way, you know how poignant. To witness in person was sweetness, multiplied.

Among thousands of Pilgrims and locals present, somehow our friend Mary from the Ukraine found us in the crowd. After mass, we shared a meal and caught up on her Camino.

The Pilgrim’s Mass was a marvelous experience. The scent of incense lingered into the next day, when we returned for the Portico of Glory tour. Oh that our lives would be lived so as to emit such a pleasing aroma to our Father in heaven!

Hold hope. Keep faith. Walk your Walk.

~ Sincerely, Sondra