Our final day of adventuring PEI and we had a choice to make: east or west? We’ve seen none of the eastern and some of the western region. Ultimately, the allure of the North Cape was stronger, like the tides that meet there. West won.
First, a pit stop at The Willow Bakery & Cafe in Stanley Bridge. We’d heard rave reviews and were not disappointed. Even if they’d sold out of scones or cinnamon rolls, stunning stained glass is worth the time. We’ve seen a few churches converted to cafes on our travels, but none so illuminating!
Before the Hubs could put the car in drive, the small hillside cemetery (est. 1870) caught my eye. We’d learned that early emigrants recorded their date of arrival to the island on headstones. I delighted to find evidence on the oldest stones, each facing away from the church and road.
The Hubs idled patiently while I tried to read them. Some stones were small, clearly infants or children. Only a handful were legible. Most reflected a life of faith and hope in the resurrection; a powerful testimony.
”A native of Langley Norfolk England emigrated to this Island with his wife in 1841. The upright shall dwell in thy presence” [John Parsons DIED September 21, 1888 AEt. 80.]
“Blessed are the dead who die in the Lord” [Jane Fyfe DIED June 9, 1884 AEt. 58.]
“Asleep in Jesus, blessed sleep / From which none ever wakes to weep / A calm and undisturbed repose / Unbroken by the last of foes” [Edith Stagnall DIED 1898 AEt. 27.]
From the Highland Storm performance, we knew a bit about the hardships early emigrants faced. Some stones seemed to suggest as much.
Before long we were on our way “up west” as the Islanders say — seems a lot like North to me. We found our way to Tignish — a small town with huge church, which was in session. I’d hoped to have a look-see but our timing was off. Instead, we pressed on for the North Cape — a serendipitous decision!
Driving up the peninsula, we were impressed by its largely undeveloped state. Large tracts of land, some of it cropland; open sea views; simple country life with few signs of affluence or entitlement. PEI is easy to love this way, generally. Here, all the more striking.
The tides meet here, on this little spit of land: Gulf of St. Lawrence and Northumberland Strait. At high tide, the waves dance together. The tide was beginning to recede as we arrived, almost as if we’d planned it, because I so wanted to walk out on the rocks!
Truly a near-perfect day: wading in the surf, searching for sea glass, sun on my shoulders and breeze at my back. We saw seals playing; an eagle soaring; plenty of seabirds. I’m told this is also where one is most likely to spot a Great White!
This is where I’d want to live if I lived here — I think? Ah, but I’ve yet to explore “down east”!
The only thing missing was our people — and oh, how the grands would love this place! The Hubs and I steadied each other on uneven footing; my water shoes, thin as ballet slippers, almost useless. Finally, flush with treasures (but no sea glass) and hungry for lunch, we called it.
As luck and lunch would have it, we drove the coast south and landed at Albert & Crown Pub in Alberton. I thought it especially fortuitous when the waitress placed a separate menu for lobster on the table but Lone Oak on tap sealed the deal!
Brooke was warm and engaging and before long, sharing insider tips on local doings: a boat parade and fireworks this evening; crafter market and sea glass beaches nearby. The area is loaded with small town charm.
Plans to enter into the craziness of C-town were abruptly ditched in favor of more beach-combing. We backtracked a bit to find the closest prospect but stumbled on the craft market first. I’m a sucker for pretty pottery, eh?
The beach was almost empty when we finally found it. We scoured long stretches of small pebbles still damp from the tide, country music from the festival near the lighthouse floating over the sand. Indeed, we found a few pieces of sea glass!
Our final memory of PEI was destined to be ice cream. I’d venture to say PEI does ice cream better than …. anywhere. Yes, I know that’s heresy as a New York dairy farmer’s wife! Every PEI dairy bar serves up creamy, dense deliciousness and it is ever so consistent in quality from one shop to the next, unlike at home. I’ve done my level best to bring you this unbiased review, having sampled quite a few!
Sunny’s ice cream in Summerside was sweet, but bidding farewell to our friends quite bittersweet. We surely hope to meet again somewhere this side of Heaven. Our door and hearts are open to you, Islanders! God bless and Godspeed.
Thanks for joining the journey.
~ Sincerely, Sondra
Looks like it was a lovely island sampler all around! God Speed!
Sounds like a delightful time!
Safe travels!