Povoa de Varzim

The Senda Litoral from Labruge to Povoa de Varzim was delightfully diverse. The Atlantic Ocean and sea breezes were never far on our 10.5-mile route. We’ve come to appreciate and anticipate massively broad and expansive beaches in this region. It was especially sweet to start at low tide, enjoying much more dramatic views.

On exposed flats, we saw people scattered over the rocks, usually wearing waders and carrying long poles. They stuck the pole in upright, at a 90 degree angle. After a few patient moments, the pole was bent toward the ground, to less than 45 degrees. More patience; then, bending to check results. We weren’t close enough to see what they were extracting.

For awhile, we trekked on weathered boardwalk protecting natural habitat. There were lovely red-tinged sea succulents in bloom, clumps of pampas grass sailing on the breeze, a range of cacti and many plants I didn’t recognize. In one section, the curiosity of tiny snails clinging to nearly every stem in sight.

Not far from Labruge is São Paio, and in that area are ancient Nordic ruins. Remnants of a prehistoric dwelling, several polishing rocks, and other archaeological findings are oddly open for exploration via a dirt path running rogue. Signs gently admonish where not to step, or avoid building a fire! If only time allowed; instead, we admired the view and moved on.

Leaving the boardwalk, the terrain became much more diversified. We trekked on hard-packed earth near cornfields, through boreal forest, and thick stands of bamboo. Following Camino signage, yellow arrows painted on concrete or metal plates with the symbol of the shell and an arrow, we trekked on through small towns and small cities to reach our destination.

For curb appeal, the charming Vila Cha was the winner, winner chicken dinner. It’s irresistible, with cobbled streets, quaint architecture and art. Along the route we saw lots of religious art and artifacts in personal settings, and plenty of churches, too.

Behind one church we saw a long expanse of a Roman road still standing. We entered another church to find St. James standing watch over the Pilgrim’s stamp we were to self-administer. A few local devotees were sitting in the pews, perhaps on midday break. We entered and left quietly, after admiring the artistry of the space.

Oh, and I held my first conversation entirely in Portuguese! I came upon a sweet exchange between a lady and a small child near the beach, and stopped for a photo. I said, “Bom dia.” She said, “Bom Caminho.” I said, “Obrigada.” :=)

We met several trekkers today — one couple from Canada, near Toronto; another from Italy. Josephene, a chiropractor from British Columbia, stuck with us awhile. We all enjoyed the ebb and flow of conversation on the trail into in Vila do Conde. We arrived famished, just in time for lunch! Vintage Rio, near the Ave River, did not disappoint.

Refreshed, we reloaded packs for the last stretch into Povoa de Varzim and the Hotel Costa Verde. After showering, we used the laundromat nearby. We’d accumulated quite a pile! Then a delicious dinner with a sunset view on the sea. A lovely way to end a long day.

Quite appropriately, my morning devotional was on walking in the favor of God. The reflection question: what would it mean for you to experience the favor of God in your life? We were encouraged to ask, with expectation. For this day, it was simple: air quality sufficient to trek.

Reviewing the data before breakfast, I didn’t know if we could go. There was group consensus to try. When we set out, there was almost no breeze. But as we walked, the air began to stir. Just what we needed, when we needed it, to clear The Way. I’m grateful.

Hold hope. Keep faith. Walk your walk.

~ Sincerely, Sondra