Trekking from Esposende to Amorosa, we had options. Options, to be honest, we didn’t fully comprehend! We took the Camino Costa. Fortunately, we made the best choice.
We set out blissfully unaware of challenges the day would hold. On the upside, scenery was marvelous — almost a complete flip of what we’d grown accustomed to on the Senda Litoral. Instead of seascape, we trekked through diverse woodlands, quaint small towns, smallholdings and farmland.
On our way out of Esposende, we encountered the beautiful Paroquia de San Marinhas. When church doors are open, we take a look. Usually, we find a few parishioners in quiet contemplation in the pews, and a small table with a Camino stamp to self-administer.
This church was different. It was immaculate, with gorgeous stained glass and statues. Moreover, at the far left front, an elderly gentleman sat at the stamp desk. I didn’t immediately recognize him as a pastor or priest, but indeed.
We joined a short line of Pilgrims queued for the stamp. At this point, someone’s navigation app insisted, rather loudly, “Return to the route! Return to the route!” I stifled a giggle.
This stamp was a two-part application. He inked the stamp and applied to the Credencial del Perregrino, per normal, before positioning a handheld embosser atop the freshly inked image. He spoke animatedly in Portuguese, encouraging us to take prayer cards, proudly pointing out the statue of Fatima.
The only thing he said that anyone understood was, Puuuushhh! Whereby each Pilgrim applied pressure on command to complete the stamp. Puuuushhh! I stifled another giggle!
From there, we trekked on through one small village after another; past cows and sheep, chickens, ducks and geese; roosters crowing, dogs barking; forests of pine and upstart eucalyptus; scrambling rocks and roots; alongside a babbling brook, pooling where we crossed on the berm. Oh, how I wanted to strip off my cute but dusty boots and dip in!
Sometimes our pathway was soft and level but more often it was hard or rutted or rocky. I was ever so grateful for the trekking poles. Except on cobblestone, where tips stick in just the wrong spot, wrenching my back to unstick them.
It seemed to me the vast majority of our trek was uphill. It was a big hill, or small mountain, I’m not sure. I only know it required far more effort than I anticipated.
When I thought we’d surely neared the summit, yet another beautiful church, Igreja de St. Tiago de Castelo de Neiva. The oldest church dedicated to St. James outside of Spain sits on a large plaza, with comfortable restrooms — not to pass up — and stunning views of the valley below and ridges beyond. Thus we knew the scope of our triumph.
As it turned out, we had further to go, switchbacking through more forest, dropping out at yet another church and another immense cemetary. We didn’t stop to look around but gratefully refilled water bottles.
The most maddening thing about the final stretch: we couldn’t seem to make progress. Triangulating mapping apps, we were on track. For sure. We agreed. But we trudged on and on, winding to and fro, only to discover we had put in the time but gained little, if any, on distance to completion! We couldn’t make any sense of it.
On descent, we trekked small villages and country lanes, marveling at the ancient stone fences and grape arbors and animals and all of the niceties of the quiet life. But secretly we were also counting daylight hours remaining.
Finally, we realized our accommodation was located ~3 miles off the Camino. Or maybe more — who knew? We no longer trusted the map apps. That was when we agreed to try to find a taxi! Totally legit, I assure you. :=)
A trek-mate suggested calling the hotel to solicit support. The desk clerk spoke limited English, transferred me to another, and then a hotel guest who might help. Meanwhile, the same trek-mate approached a lady sweeping her stoop. She was willing to assist, placed the call, and a taxi arrived shortly. We were immensely relieved. (On our next leg, we’ll return by cab to relaunch our journey.)
My devotion this morning was on wisdom, the “principal thing” (Proverbs 4:7), the foundation for life. Wisdom from the Lord is precious, exceeding our own capacity.
The reflection question: where do you need more of God’s wisdom in your life? I can think of a few specific areas! No surprise, three times over the course of the day wisdom came into play.
First, I started out a bit frazzled; something was not quite clicking. I knew I needed to focus in on the map and have a conversation with my group. I ignored my own best instinct. Wisdom says, “Slow down. Deep breath. Process. Don’t make a rash move.”
Later, the wisdom of the group proved beneficial when we had to backtrack. After hours and hours on your feet, uphill and down, bearing a load, every step hurts. Your brain doesn’t work as well, either. I’m grateful for capable and smart trek-mates!
Finally, we’ve trekked more than 50 miles with loaded packs. Wisdom says, “Listen to your body.” I might have prevented (or alleviated) issues that cropped up a few days ago if I’d been listing! Instead, I suppressed or refused to acknowledge tinges of pain and discomfort. Now I’m icing, elevating, medicating, and hoping for the best.
We’re all training as we go, eh? I’m trekking on with the knowledge that wisdom is embedded in the rhythm of a life of faith at the pace of grace.
Hold hope. Keep faith. Walk your walk.
~ Sincerely, Sondra
