bucket list belugas

Do you keep a bucket list of places to go or things to do this side of heaven? Me, too. So satisfying to check one off, eh? Last week, we had the distinct pleasure of observing belugas in the wild — beyond marvelous!

We first learned of a beluga population at Tadoussac while cruising the Canadian Maritimes out of Quebec City. Unfortunately, we sailed through Parc Marin du Saguenay-Saint-Laurent in the black of night — twice!

Later, a Canadian friend shared more information; then we knew it’d be a road trip. It only took another decade to make that 800-mile round-trip adventure a reality!

The first five hours of our journey took us across an international border on the fringe of Akwesasne Mohawk lands, cross-lots fertile farmlands of southern Quebec, then bridging the beautiful St. Lawrence, and navigating nasty construction on the back side of Quebec City.

The next three hours we drove almost parallel with the St. Lawrence. Terrain was much more dramatic than expected. So glad not to be hauling a RV through deeply sculpted hills and valleys, dodging logging trucks and other big rigs and motorbikes on two lanes transitioning to one lane back to two lanes, with emergency run offs every couple of miles!

Ahead and to our left, endless woodlands interspersed with lakes and small towns. To our right, glimpses of the river broadening every mile; an occasional large ship churning the channel.

Along the drive, wildflowers were my personal delight. Large stands of purple lupine, wide swaths of white daisies, interloping yellow buttercups, bright Indian paintbrushes splashing orange and red. The Quebec countryside slid by like Monet’s garden. From nearly every vantage, vistas took my breath away!

Signage was in French, of course — along with sometimes confusing pictures. We understood MOOSE; familiar, if uninitiated. (Except that one time, a young adult newly released to populate in the wild hung out under the apple tree in our yard.) We’d like to see one but not to meet one on the hood of the car. Most oddly juxtaposed were BALEINES signage anchored to steep hillsides of freshly harvested grass rolled up into massive bales of hay.

With only one brief fuel stop, we were road-weary on arrival at the iconic and elegant Hotel Tadoussac. Despite fine dining on site, we were eager to stretch our legs and explore the tiny town. A couple weeks in advance of high season, no problem finding seats for delicious local fare.

We had only two nights and less than two days in town before a Quebec City rendezvous. We’d make the most of every minute. The Saguenay-St. Lawrence Marine Park provides environmental protection for the belugas and several education centers with lovely overlooks to learn about and observe these bright beauties from shore.

On Thursday morning, we walked to Marine Mammal Interpretation Center. CIMM is a must-do with kids; highly interactive exhibits and full scale skeletons to awe and inspire. Entrance fees support ongoing research helping to protect resident belugas.

Nearby, the Pointe-de-I’lslet Trail was a fun and refreshing excursion: lots of rocks intersecting wooden boardwalk, many steps up and down; great views, including our first beluga sightings. Woo-hoo!

Most of Thursday we were traveling deep into the Saguenay Fjord on a small vessel to L’Anse Saint Jean. This is sweet little fishing village has turned to tourism to stay afloat. One cafe. One ice cream shop. One kayak rental shop. One small marina. A few lodging houses for skiers. On the cruise back we saw a minke whale, a harbor seal, and lots of the fjord, but no belugas.

We got back just in time to tour the inside of the historic Petite Chapelle des Indians / Saint Croix de Tadoussac Mission before closing. The oldest wooden church in North America (1747) maintains a testimony, plus unique architecture and artifacts; so worth a visit.

Then we landed a table for dinner deluxe at Hotel Tadoussac. Day one, nicely done!

Friday morning, from the broad balcony at the Hotel Tadoussac, we enjoyed coffee and several more beluga sightings. Granted, belugas have been at some distance but the flash of their wide white backs above the surface is unmistakable. Once you’ve seen it, you know it and it never gets old!

We, however, did hope to view belugas more closely. A short drive further along Rt. 138 led us to the Marine Environment and Discovery Center, with beautiful views and exhibits on the underwater environment, but no belugas.

From there, back towards Tadoussac to Cap de Bon-Desire Interpretation and Observation Center, a historic lighthouse settlement with wooded trail to rocky point and expansive whale-watching perspective, but no belugas. This would be the place to spend a full day, we agreed, perched on the rocks with picnic supplies. Next time!

Sometimes it felt like we’d landed at the End of the Earth, again. A glance at the map told us otherwise. Locals were quick to chime in about the hours and hours of Quebec yet ahead if we wanted to make that journey … and then, on to Labrador. We’ve newfound appreciation for the grandeur and scope of our nearest and dearest neighbor: O Canada!

Marine park staff at each of the small educational centers we visited were outstanding — welcoming and helpful, gracious in speaking English, well-informed, and passionate about their work. Tadoussac also proved a refreshing change from sometimes French-snobby vibe in other parts of Quebec.

We didn’t spot any other whales, neither unexpected nor disappointing so early in the season. Mid-July into September or October you’ll find a plethora of prospects as migrating whales feed off the richness of the region. Whale watching tours abound but, as protected residents all year long, boats must give belugas wide berth.

We’d been surprised (yet again) by effects of ocean tides on the St. Lawrence from Quebec City eastward. The river stretches five miles wide here, so far from the familiar fresh waterway of St. Lawrence County, N.Y. As at home, the water is cold, the current is strong. Here, however, landscapes shift dramatically on the tide.

Beluga home-base also shifts as temperatures drop, from the fresh-water fjord, which freezes over, into the salty St. Lawrence. Belugas lack a protruding dorsal fin, so they are able to navigate ice. Seems smart they opt not to live beneath it!

We’d seen belugas; it could have been enough. Yet we’d one more hopeful stop to make. Catching the Rt. 138 ferry in Tadoussac for our westwardly return, we pulled off at Point Noire Observation & Interpretation Centre. Here we hit the beluga jackpot!

We lingered as long as we could, enjoying the slow dance of a dozen or more belugas in Baie Sainte Catherine. They surfaced sometimes in pairs; more typically, solo. We observed one presumably playful interaction between (white) adult and (gray) youngster, where splashing ensued. Otherwise, belugas were quiet and calm. Adults never showed off a flipper or fluke, just their bright white backs, arching above the waterline before gently sinking beneath the surface, revealing neither head nor tail.

Thus I was especially delighted to capture an image of a baby fluke and another of a juvenile flipper!

We could have stayed hours or days, but not today. A certain someone special was turning #40 and we weren’t going to miss it! Day two ended on a high note, celebrating at a renown Quebec City steakhouse.

My heart was full to overflowing from immersing in the marvels of God’s creation; replenishing body, mind, and spirit; reveling in travel adventure; and reflecting on incredible blessings over four decades of doing life with our dear daughter. So. Good. I wouldn’t change a thing on the bucket-list beluga road trip!

~ Sincerely, Sondra